The World of Style & Entertainment

[ti-amie]

Only thing I will say.
That is not the creation of A TAILOR. That is the creation of A CUTTER. Not the same thing.

Please explain. I think I understand what you mean though. In other words the person who makes/cuts the fabric?

[ponchi101]

A TAILOR is a person that sews and alters clothes; s/he is given a pattern or collection of fabric pieces and proceeds to assemble a suit.
A CUTTER is the one that measures the person, and designs and cuts the individual pieces that will assemble the suit. That is the reason King Carlos' clothes fit so well: a cutter measured HIM and cut the pieces of fabric to fit HIM. A tailor would receive the collection of pieces and assemble a suit with them, but he could assemble them for him, me or you.
The cutter is a creator, the tailor an assembler. And, although a tailor can assemble a great piece, the cutter will create an unique one, meant only for one person.

[ti-amie]

A TAILOR is a person that sews and alters clothes; s/he is given a pattern or collection of fabric pieces and proceeds to assemble a suit.
A CUTTER is the one that measures the person, and designs and cuts the individual pieces that will assemble the suit. That is the reason King Carlos' clothes fit so well: a cutter measured HIM and cut the pieces of fabric to fit HIM. A tailor would receive the collection of pieces and assemble a suit with them, but he could assemble them for him, me or you.
The cutter is a creator, the tailor an assembler. And, although a tailor can assemble a great piece, the cutter will create an unique one, meant only for one person.

I guess I confused the two because in TV land the person measuring and then assembling the garment is always shown to be the same person. They lied!

[ponchi101]

Find in HBO a movie called THE OUTFIT. A delightful piece, in which all this is explained (and then you have a great plot about gangsters).

[ti-amie]

After looking at the men of different builds in "perfect" suits I don't know if I will ever unsee what the standard is.

[Suliso]

The king certainly looks very good, but looking good is part of his job description.

Now I wonder how he compares with other kings and princes accross Europe.

[Owendonovan]

Are we giving Santos any points for nailing down the "slob" look?

[ponchi101]

Slob look? He looks like a sack of rotten potatoes. I mean, he makes Chris Christie look svelte and fit.

[ti-amie]

[ti-amie]

[ti-amie]

If you're planning to see "Oppenheimer" this weekend keep this in mind about the building of Los Alamos.

Alisa Lynn Valdés, M.S.
@AlisaValdesRod1

This quote, from the @nytimes review of the OPPENHEIMER film: "He served as director of a clandestine weapons lab built in a near-desolate stretch of Los Alamos, in New Mexico"...

It was inhabited by Hispanos. They were given less than 24 hr to leave. Their farms bulldozed. 1
Many of those families had been on the same land for centuries. The Oppenheimer's crew literally shot all their livestock through the head and bulldozed them. People fled on foot with nowhere to go. Land rich, money poor. Their land seized by the government.
2
All of the Hispano NM men who were displaced by the labs later were hired to work with beryllium by Oppenheimer. The white men got protective gear. The Hispano men did not.
3
The Hispano men all died of berylliosis. These were US citizens, folks. Their land taken, animals killed, farms bulldozed, forced to work for the people who took everything from them, and killed by those people.
4
For 20 years I have been trying to sell a film based on the story of Loyda Martinez, a remarkable whistleblower whose family's land was seized for the labs. Her dad was one of the men who died from beryllium exposure at the labs. She later went to work there too.
5
She is a computer whiz who rose to the top of her department at Los Alamos. Then she started digging for info on the Hispano men the labs killed, like her father. She filed a class action lawsuit, and won.

6
The first Hispano governor of NM, Bill Richardson, appointed Loyda to run the state's human rights commission. She then filed a second class-action against Los Alamos, on behalf of women scientists not paid fairly.
7
But, no. We want more films about the "complex and troubled" "heroic" white men, who conducted their GENIUS in a "virtually unpopulated" place. These are ALL lies. This is mythology in service to white supremacy and the military industrial complex, masquerading as "nuanced."
8
Because of what the labs did to the local Hispano people in northern NM, our communities now have the highest rates of heroin overdose deaths in the nation. The generational trauma and forced poverty is outrageous. We need the real stories of Oppenheimer to be told. END


Nolan, Hollywood, the NY Times - all of them should be ashamed. Someone should fund my Loyda Martinez film. She's like @ErinBrockovich - bubbly, beautiful, was a cheerleader & computer genius. Loyda's is the story we SHOULD be hearing. But we get Hot (expletive) Cheetohs.
Loyda Martinez. KNOW HER NAME. One of the bravest and most important women in American history.



Loyda's mother and father. Her dad was driven off their family's land when Oppenheimer and the US government seized it to make the labs. They then hired him, made him work with berrylium without protective gear (his white bosses got PPE) and he died of berryliosis, like many did.



Apologies - corrections. Richardson was the 6th Hispano governor of the US State of NM.
Plesse watch

https://threadreaderapp.com/thread/1682 ... 94849.html

There is a video at the end of the thread.

"Hispanos" is not a typo or error. These men and women are descendants of conquistadors who remained in what is now New Mexico.

[ti-amie]

[mmmm8]

Regarding the men's tailoring notes above - I do think that you'd want a bit more variety in styles, I disagree that that cut looks great on every body type. Some of the principles make sense for all cases (i.e. shirt collar length, proportions) but some things should be styled for different occasions. For example, I think a shorter jacket works for some men/occasions better than a long one. Even the examples he included of King Felipe had a couple where the coat looked a bit big on him.

I think bespoke tailoring, thinking through how the coat works in dynamic movement, and geometry were the key takeaways.

The pant length of world leaders at that summit is a little embarrassing. The dry cleaning service for their suits could take care of that alteration.

[ashkor87]

Saw Oppenheimer here in a theatre last Sunday..getting mixed reviews here..mostly because the main story line (witch-hunt) doesn't resonate with non-US audiences. ..

[ashkor87]

why should all men wear suits, anyway? I refuse to wear them nowadays.. the Japanese government had even banned them once.. it feels odd to see Japanese, and Chinese and Koreans wearing western suits.. dont they have formal wear of their own?!